Bubbly and why it sparkles

All Champagne is sparkling, but not all sparkling wine is champagne — even if it’s from a place with that name!

The Swiss village of Champagne lies on the border with France, around 400 kilometers from the more famous winegrowing region of the same name. Although the two Champagnes share a name, they have been locked in a bitter 30-year struggle over the right to use it on their locally produced wine. Recently, the bigger Champagne won, chalking up yet another victory against those who would usurp its identity as a premium brand.

Although Switzerland’s Champagne has existed since the ninth century, the European Court of Justice ruled last week that its wine would have to be given a new name rather than infringe on the billion-dollar prestige of France’s Champagne region, reports Forbes. According to village Mayor Marc-Andre Cornu, the Swiss vintners lost on a technicality.

The story goes back to 1974, when France and Switzerland picked the names of wine regions, or ‘appellations,’ that they wanted to protect almost as copyrighted brands.

Naturally, France signed up its world-famous ‘Champagne,’ but Switzerland ignored its identically named tiny village in favour of more established names such as ‘Bonvillars’ and ‘Corcelles.’ In India, there’s no such confusion as there’s a big price distinction between Champagne and the Indian sparkling wines.

The trend exits here now, but the numbers are not as big as they could be, according to Amaan Kidwai, food and beverage manager of a leading five-star hotel. “Most of our guests prefer sparkling wines — they are a cheaper version and are easily affordable,” he says.

At the hotel’s sold-out Sunday brunches is offered a crisp, dry German sparkling wine and Kidwai reports that over 50 per cent of the brunchers opt for it over beer and other spirits. “We finish over 18 bottles over Sunday afternoon,” he says, “There are more people opting for Champagne and sparkling wine these days, either during celebratory functions or as an aperitif.” While the Indian wines, which retail at about Rs 500, sell at Rs 2,000 in the hotel, they also have a few takers for champagne — Moet et Chandon at Rs 3,000 for the small bottle, Rs 8,000 for Taittinger and Rs 12,000 for the premium Dom Perignon.

Personal stylist Manjusha Maheshwari is a long-time fan of Champagne, and admits Veuve Clicquot is a favourite. “Of course if I had a choice I would opt for Champagne over sparkling wine. If I don’t I’ll settle for the Indian sparkling,” she says, “I like the bubbly feeling, the taste and I love the qualities it represents.”